How does protease work as an exfoliant?

Protease enzymes work by selectively breaking the peptide bonds in dead skin cells, helping to loosen and remove them from the skin's surface. This process is generally gentler than physical exfoliants or alpha hydroxy acids.

Is protease suitable for sensitive skin?

While often considered gentler than other exfoliants, protease can still cause irritation, especially in higher concentrations or with prolonged use. Patch testing is recommended for individuals with sensitive skin.

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Protease

Protease is an enzyme that breaks down proteins into smaller peptides or amino acids. In cosmetics, it can be used for exfoliation, helping to remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture. It is also found in some cleansing products for its ability to break down protein-based impurities.

Enzyme

BenefitModerate 1.8 / 4

Texture i2 / 4

Whether it can improve smoothness and surface texture — roughness, flaking, clogged pores, or unevenness. Exfoliating acids, retinoids, and smoothing moisturizers may score here.

RiskModerate 1.5 / 4

Irritation i1.5 / 4

Risk of short-term irritation — stinging, burning, dryness, redness, or discomfort. Common for strong actives, acids, retinoids, fragrances, and harsh surfactants.

Sensitization i1 / 4

Risk of allergic contact dermatitis or immune-based reactions. Fragrance allergens, preservatives, botanicals, and some dyes may score here.

Systemic exposure i0.5 / 4

Whether it has meaningful potential to be absorbed into the body at levels that may matter biologically. Most cosmetic ingredients score low unless there is known concern or high exposure.

Rated by SpottyLabs' ingredient methodology, independent of brands.

What it helps with

Gentle exfoliation
Improves skin texture
Aids in cleansing

Things to watch

Potential for irritation
May increase sun sensitivity

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Frequently asked questions

How does protease work as an exfoliant?: Protease enzymes work by selectively breaking the peptide bonds in dead skin cells, helping to loosen and remove them from the skin's surface. This process is generally gentler than physical exfoliants or alpha hydroxy acids.
Is protease suitable for sensitive skin?: While often considered gentler than other exfoliants, protease can still cause irritation, especially in higher concentrations or with prolonged use. Patch testing is recommended for individuals with sensitive skin.